Rooting out the small, bizarre, eccentricity-driven museums of a town is one of the best ways to get to know a new place. New York has some of the greatest museums around (and I’ll go down fighting for the Natural History museum), but I much prefer the inscrutibility of something like the Museum of Jurasic Technology in L.A., a straitforward/factual collection of outdated beliefs, theorums and rumors. So since I had today off I thought I’d get out and poke around some of Portland’s smaller museums to prevent myself from lying around reading old issues of The New Yorker, People and Us.
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The Kidd Museum is on the corner of SE Grand and Main street, in an area I visit or at least drive past almost daily. But you’d never know it was here since there’s no signs and zero suspicion factor of what’s going on inside (see below). I tried to open the locked door, then knocked. A woman answered and I was stupidly like, ‘are you guys… open?’ and she was ‘oh sure’. Inside it looked like an old insurance or accounting firm. The kind of place you’d pass on Flatbush Ave in Brooklyn, a big cluttered fluorescent-lit messy office. But then the lady walked into an adjoining room and flicked on a light switch and several rooms like the one pictured above popped into existence. I nearly had a heart attack.
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The collection only began 30 years ago and all the toys (mostly banks) are from 1869 to 1939. It’s free to tour and the lady who let me in, seemingly in the middle of her non-toy related work day, was super friendly (in that native Portland way, where at first you think they’re going to be really mean and they turn out to be incredibly nice). This display, at 1301 SE Grand was just the tip of the iceburg. There were displays in the auto parts shops next door and across the street. And sure enough, next door in a completely average parts store was a huge surreal collection of old toys (though there were a few Star Wars toys and a Magical Mickey toy, which I had and loved as a four year old).
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The place across the street was even weirder. You go up to the parts counter and have to ask to be let in to the secret room. A totally gruff auto guy is like, ’sure no problem, they’re all upstairs’ and you get to walk behind the counter through rows and rows of auto parts to a secret room filled with ancient toy banks. I couldn’t get over how weird that was. It reminded me of Orson Welles’ adaptation of The Trial, where Anthony Perkins is running through somebody’s apartment and a short hallway connects it to some weird archive or courtroom (think Terry Gilliam or Michel Gondry for that matter, too).
Turning a corner and seeing this, really scared the hell out of me.
This is the place from the outside. The little brochure I picked up explains that the owner of these auto supply stores doesn’t really have a place to show all his stuff and maybe one day will have a ‘proper’ museum. I like it this way better, but I heard there’s a whole warehouse full of toys in the area that are sitting around in crates, Raiders of the Lost Arc style.
This is the full extent of the signage. Though the guy at the parts place told me they get tourists almost every day since this is the biggest private toy collection (from that period) in the United States.
The whole time I kept wishing my fiendish collector friend Karen was with me to go nuts over all this loot. Actually, Portland is pretty amazing for toy collectors in general. There’s a new place on Burnside that has every toy you ever had or wanted when you were a kid from the 70s and 80s. Then there’s a place on Burnside, in the NE called Dr. Tooth’s that’s pretty nuts and another store in Sellwood with display case after display case of amazing stuff. My own fervent collecting really slowed down after living in NY, where there were no good deals and all you have to rely on is eBay. Now, I just want a Magical Musical Thing and a Merlin.
My other big plan was to visit the American Advertising Museum. I’d heard of this place from Jeremy before I’d even moved west and was really psyched to check it out. It’s in the Pearl. This is what I found when I got there:
It was pretty heart breaking. The woman at the coffee shop next store said they just vanished in the night about a month or two ago (oh! why didn’t I go the day I got off the plane!!??!!). This is one of those Greek mythology lessons, somehow, like don’t put things off for tomorrow when you should be doing them today. When I got home, I checked their site again and called the local number. It directed me to a long distance number whose area code I didn’t recognize. Someone from the museum picked up and said they were now located in Milwaulkee, Wisconsin (!), which I guess means there’s another reason to go out there (the first being to visit The House On the Rock).